Cook's Concern

In colonial times, the choicest piece of meat or a special taste from a prized recipe was often called the Cook's Concern. The Cook would enjoy this morsel and tweak the dish if so needed. I hope to share with you the choicest morsels in current culinary information. Enjoy!

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Red, White and Blue

Happy Independence Day folks!  235 years ago on July 4th, the greatest experiment in democracy was born...and we are reduced to celebrating it with sheet cake decorated with whipped cream, raspberries and blueberries...rather banal in my humble opinion.  Of course there are those who shake it up a bit and put the aforementioned ingredients into parfait glasses...oooh.

Come on America, this is our Independence Day...celebrate regional cuisine...research and enjoy recipes from 200+ years ago...show that creative, independent spirit that fostered a great nation and make some great food!

The heat of summer begs for cookouts but why limit yourself to hot dogs and hamburgers?  Okay, this may be a family tradition of sorts, and I am all over tradition, but there is something to be said to adding to the complement of favorites with something from our history or national heritage!

Here are a few recipes that give a tip of the hat to my US travels and love of history.  They will add some fireworks to our holiday menu:

For the Red from South Carolina:  Southern Tomato Pie  serves 6-8

Ingredients:
1 pre-baked 9 inch deep dish pie shell

6 large farm fresh tomatoes, peeled and sliced
     *To remove skins: score a small x in the bottom of the tomatoes; plunge the tomatoes into salted, boiling water for 15-20 seconds.  Remove the tomatoes and put into an ice bath to cool.  The skins should  peel off quite easily using a paring knife.
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved and seeds removed, reserve for topping
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, torn
1/2 cup chopped scallions
1tsp minced fresh thyme
3/4 cup grated Gruyere cheese, set aside 1/4 c
1/2 cup grated mozzarella
3/4 cup grate sharp cheddar cheese, set aside 1/4 c
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup low-fat sour cream
1tsp crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste

Method:
Preheat oven to 350*F and place rack in the middle of the oven.

Layer the sliced tomatoes on a cooling rack placed on a baking sheet.  Sprinkle the tomatoes lightly with salt and allow to drain for 10 minutes. Pat dry.

In a mixing bowl, combine the mayo, sour cream and cheeses together, reserving 1/4 cup Gruyere for the topping and 1/4 cup cheddar for the bottom.

In the prepared pie shell, sprinkle 1/4cup cheddar cheese over the bottom of the crust. Layer 1/2 of the tomatoes, basil, thyme and onion, sprinkle with a few red pepper flakes.  Top the vegetables with half the mayo/sour cream/cheese mixture. Repeat this layering procedure. 
Arrange the cherry tomatoes in a decorative pattern on the top of the pie.Season lightly with salt and pepper.  Sprinkle the reserved Gruyere over the top. 
Bake for 30 minutes, turning the pie halfway through the cooking process and removed when lightly browned. 
Let rest for 15 minutes before cutting.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

For the White from my own backyard in MA: Lobster Potato Salad   Serves 4-6

Okay, it is not really white...but it is yummy!

Ingredients:
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch cubes
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch cubes

1/2 cup minced Vidalia onion
1/3 cup minced celery

1/2 pound cooked lobster meat, chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
4 ounces baked ham, cubed into 3/4 inch pieces

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 cup light mayonnaise
1/2 cup light sour cream or Greek yogurt
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp salt
1 tsp white pepper

1 tsp minced fresh chives
1tsp minced parsley

Method:
Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender (about 8-10 minutes).  Drain and let cool to room temperature. 
In a large bowl, combine potatoes, celery, lobster and ham.  Set aide.
Combine onion and vinegar and let steep for 10 minutes then,
stir in mayo, sour cream,  mustard, salt and pepper.
 Dress the potato mixture with the sauce, tossing gently. 
Cover and chill for at least 1 hour.
Garnish with chives and parsley.

And now the Blue and nod to Texas and Iowa:  Black and Blue Burgers  serves 6

Ingredients:
1 pounds ground chuck
1/2 pound ground sirloin
1 cup Maytag blue cheese crumbles
1/4 cup steak sauce or catsup
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
1 tsp seasoned salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper

Garnish:  sliced blue cheese, crispy bacon, lettuce and  sliced tomato

In a large bowl, gingerly combine the meats, being careful not to overly work them.  In a separate bowl, combine the rest of the ingredients until well incorporated.  Add this mixture to the meat and again, gently combine until evenly distributed, but not compacted.

Form the meat mixture into 6 patties and let rest  covered for 10 minutes.

Lightly oil the grill/grill pan.

Over a medium heat/ flame/coals, cook the burgers about 4 minutes per side for medium.
Serve on toasted whole wheat buns and your choice of garnishes.

If using a charcoal fire...check out my blog recipes for S'Mores!

Happy Independence Day America!

Sunday, June 26, 2011

You say Pasta, I say Macaroni

Growing up in the economically challenging '60s and '70's saw us eating "macaroni" often.  From American Chop Suey, which could stretch a half a pound of ground beef, assorted vegetables, canned tomatoes and 8 ounces of dry elbow macaroni to feed a family of 6 with a few neighborhood friends tossed in for good measure,  to my personal favorite of yesteryear, Spaghetti and Meatballs...we ate macaroni perhaps two or three nights a week...and my mother was Irish!  She was a whiz at mixing ground meat or chicken, some frozen vegetables, Campbell's cream of something and macaroni in a casserole, popped it in an oven and voila...dinner...it was edible, inexpensive and mostly forgettable!  Sorry Mom.

In 1969, Prince Pasta introduced Anthony, running through the streets of Boston's North End and creating in my life, MY first food tradition...Wednesday is Prince Spaghetti Day...and to this day, I'd say probably 3 out of 4 Wednesdays each month, I am serving some sort of pasta to my family.  It just seems so right.  As a kid, I poured over the recipes on the back of Prince Pasta boxes. I still use the Italian Wedding Soup recipe...modified a bit, from the back of the Pastina box. Speaking of Pastina...it will show up in our little family's food history later on!  I will never, ever forget that mother hanging out the window yelling, "Anthony!!"

In 1978, I started dating a nice Italian boy (and 33 years later, 28 of them married, we are still together). His mother introduced me to 'pah-stah'.  Once married to her son, she taught me the secret family recipe for sauce...not gravy...and although I have tweaked the recipe a bit over the years...it is a staple in our home.  I knew I had become a good cook when my dear (departed) father-in-law proclaimed that my sauce was better than his Louise's!  By the way, as it was explained to me, the debate over sauce versus gravy has two arguments.  The first is sauce is tomato based with "whole meats" like meatballs, sausage, sliced pork added to it and gravy is a tomato or brown sauce thas has ground meat cooked into it, like a bolognese.  The other argument is that if you live in the north of Italy, you use gravy on your food, if you hail from southern Italy and Sicily, it is sauce.  I dunno...I make several types of sauces and gravies for all sorts of things!

Over the course of our lives, pasta has been a constant.  Barbo family recipes have been passed down from generation to generation. When the clan gets together, we serve pasta...everyone likes it and it makes a ton!  As a Barbo "outlaw" with a creative culinary streak, (I am not Italian...I think my husband's family is over that fact now...I am Irish with a smidge of Alsace, as well as half Dutch), I am pleased to say that I have added a few pasta recipes and modified some classics for our families. 

The first time I ever had my mother-in-law's Pasta Fagioli (prounced bastah fa-jool), macaroni transformed evermore into PASTA.   Who knew pasta and beans could be soooo wonderfully delicious.   The first "real" food our children ate after rice cereal and baby food out of a jar was Prince Pastina... cooked tiny grains of pasta, lightly sauced with the Barbo family tomato sauce recipe...my children refused baby food from a jar after that and so I made their food from scratch with thanks to a trusty food mill! 

When my children are sick, they don't want chicken soup, they want Eggy Noodle Soup...a homemade concoction that soothes a sore throat and surprisingly settles stomachs.  Using homemade chicken broth, I'd cook some sort of small shaped pasta like Pastina, Stars or Alphabets, or Angel Hair pasta, broken into small pieces.  I'd add a teaspoon of butter to the broth, some chopped parsley and 2 minutes before the pasta was "done" I would drizzle a beaten egg into the boiling broth, creating fine ribbons of egg in the soup.  If I were feeding a cold, I'd add some freshly cracked black pepper and grated Parmesan cheese to the soup...if I were treating someone with a "bug", then I would add an ice cube to cool it down some and the added water diluted the soup just enough to make it easier to eat.  To this day, my adult children and husband ask for it when something ails them!

Having had the blessings and luxury of traveling at home and internationally over the past ten years, I have been on the lookout for new and interesting pasta dishes.  Like I said earlier, pasta is one of those key elements to our family food history, and much like bread, almost every culture has their own pasta.  I have enjoyed couscous prepared in a tajine in the south of France, spaetzle in Austria, gnocchi (both potato and cheese) in Italy, perogies, stuffed pastas, kugel and so much more from all my travels. 

Most chefs will tell you that they won't eat pasta out in restaurants...it is "cheap" to make, keeps well and is the money maker for many a restaurant...if they are going to take time to eat out and spend $$$, they would rather eat something they are not apt to make themselves.  I think they are missing the bigger picture.  Yeah, paying more than $5 for a bowl of spaghetti is counter-intuitive for someone in the food industry, but some of the best and most comforting food I have eaten is pasta.  I make a Truffled Lobster Macaroni and Cheese (3 cheeses)...that deserves a $25 price tag!  It is labor intensive and certainly a labor of love.  It is our Christmas Eve dinner, and the stuff of memories. 

For most Americans, pasta/macaroni is a vehicle to transport some sort of sauce...but I hope to challenge that notion, in that a pasta dish done well is a fine marriage of starch to sauce or other accompaniment...a balance.  The shape of pasta matters too...cut shapes, tubes, strands, large, medium or small, thick or thin...layered, stuffed or slathered, each type of pasta brings a special something to the plate. 

My personal preference is the smaller or thinner the pasta, the lighter and fresher the sauce/accompaniment should be...denser, thicker or wide pasta can handle heartier sauces.  For example, I love Angel Hair pasta, but the fine strands are lost in my traditional tomato sauce, so I make a fresh cherry tomato sauce with herbs and grilled shrimp for this light and tasty pasta.

Fresh Cherry Tomato Pan Sauce  (serves 4)

1 quart of Cherry tomatoes halved, set aside a cup of fresh tomatoes for garnish

1 cup dry white wine (I use Pinot Grigio)
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup reserved pasta water (if needed)

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp unsalted butter

1/2 cup baby spinach leaves, torn
1 small shallot, minced
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves torn, 2 tbsp reserved for garnish
2 tbsp fresh parsley, rough chopped
1 tsp minced garlic

1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp cracked black pepper
Hot pepper flakes to taste

8 ounces Angel Hair pasta, cooked in boiling salted water for 3 minutes, drained
*reserve 1/2 cup pasta water for sauce if needed

Garnish with shredded Parmesan cheese, basil and reserved halved cherry tomatoes

Method:

In a large saute pan, add oil and butter over medium heat.  Once the butter is melted, add minced garlic, shallot and tomatoes, sauteeing until the tomatoes soften, about 4 -5 minutes; stir often to prevent garlic from burning.  Add spinach and herbs to pan, cooking until just wilted.  Add wine and broth to pan and bring to a gently simmer over medium-low heat.  Simmer for 5 minutes.  Add cooked Angel Hair pasta to the pan, mixing thoroughly.  Add up to 1/2 cup of the pasta water if the pasta and sauce seem "dry".  Season with salt, pepper and pepper flakes.  Serve immediately.

Garnish with fresh basil, cheese and fresh cherry tomato halves.

Serve with skewers of grilled shrimp.


There are so many varieties of pasta out there, that I think it quite possible that one could probably eat a different pasta dish every day for at least a month without eating the same shape twice!  In recent months, I have gravitated toward couscous as an alternative to potatoes and rice.  My favorite is Israeli couscous, large pearls of semolina pasta that are perfect in soups, salads and as a side, dressed with herbs and flavored oils.  Orchiette, a dense pasta from the Puglia region of Italy is another of my new favorites.  The robust, ear-shaped pasta is the prefect foil for cheese and broccoli or broccoli rabi. 

For our family and friends holiday party, I prepare a white wine and sun-dried tomato sauce with assorted seafood to pour over a long, wide and flat noodle called Mother-in-Law's Tongue.  The multi-colored pasta with the serrated edges are supposed to be reminiscent of  mother-in-law's sharp yet colorful and witty tongue!

From whole wheat to whole grains, pasta is no longer a forbidden carbohydrate. Flavored pastas, colored pastas and "pasta" made from fresh veggies...all add variety and possibilities for even the most health conscious among us.   I have made ribbons from zucchini and summer squash. blanched and topped them with a fresh tomato salsa...no starchy carbs there.  I love spaghetti squash...the first time I served it to my family, I mixed the squash in with spaghetti...and my kids didn't notice!  I got a new veggie into their diets...woohoo! Still, it is wise to check the pasta packaging for serving size...most American restaurants serve mass quantities of pasta...it is that value thing...but pasta/macaroni/noodles/sketti...when done right satisfies on so many levels!

Here's to Wednesday...Pasta Day..."ANTHONY!"...a tavolo my friends!

Friday, June 17, 2011

Fathers' Day: Have S'More Fun!





At our home, Father's Day is usually spent lounging by the pool, listening to the Red Sox game as it crackles across the radio airwaves.  It is a lazy day...just the way Bill likes it.  We cookout and when dusk comes, we light a fire in the fire pit and it is time for dessert...S'Mores!

This year the youngest has returned to the nest from her sophomore semester in college and we decided to kick things up a notch for Father's Day.  Last night we taste tested a few variations on the traditional S'more and we found a few winners...a fact made sweeter because we were watching the Boston Bruins win the Stanley Cup!

Most people are familiar with the very good, traditional recipe for S'mores:  Graham Crackers, Milk Chocolate candy bars (we preferred Hershey's) and Marshmallows, toasted over the glowing coals of an open fire.

We tested interesting, new combinations and are pleased to share some of the results...let's hope they inspire you to make S'Mores a part of your Father's Day celebrations.

Cookie base options:  Graham Crackers, Girl Scout Short Bread Cookies, Lu Petit Ecolier Dark Chocolate Biscuits and Pretzel Rods.

Chocolate options:  Willy Wonka Waterfall Milk and White Chocolate  Bar,  Hershey's Special Dark Chocolate, Hershey's Symphony Milk Chocolate and Milk Chocolate Toffee/Nut Bars, Reese's Peanut Butter Cups and York Peppermint Patties.

Marshmallow options:  Regular Kraft  Marshmallows,  Kraft Jumbo Jet-Puffed Marshmallows and Toasted Coconut Marshmallows



S'Mores combo  #1 :
Graham Crackers, Reese's Peanut Butter Cup and a Jumbo toasted marshmallow. 
The Jumbo marshmallows are a nice size to compensate for the thicker chocolate option, but be careful not to burn them in an effort to get the interior ooey-gooey.  A wee bit of resting time once assembled will allow the marshmallow to soften completely as well as soften the peanut butter cup to a requisite squishiness.  My daughter commented that this combo reminded her of  the flavor of a Butter Finger candy bar.  This was my husband's favorite!




A close second for Dad was combo #2:
2 Petit Ecolier Dark Chocolate Biscuits and a regular sized toasted marshmallow...his comment,"This tastes like Paris!"  The dark smooth chocolate melted evenly from the heat of the marshmallow, but wasn't too mushy or oozy.   The plus for me about this combo is that with the combo cookie and chocolate, there is less to clean up...it is easier to manage, as in the S'More is less likely to smush apart and ooze everywhere...I know spoken like a true mess detesting Mom!  I'd take these along for cookout at the beach or some other summery place!  My accomplice in this experiment said this combo was okay, but she is not a fan of really dark chocolate...the good news is LU makes a milk chocolate version of the biscuit as well.



Option number 3 was a wee bit more outside the box:

Graham crackers, toasted jumbo marshmallow and York Peppermint Patties.  Because the jumbo marshmallow presented the most challenge in melting all the way through without burning on the outside, we were going to not recommend it for the S'More updates, but we had a happy accident.  As Em was trying to take the marshmallow off the toasting stick, a core of marshmallow popped out of the center, leaving a pocket begging to be filled...so in went the peppermint patty...and the marshmallow collapsed around it, melting it perfectly as the graham crackers gently mashed around the toasty exterior...the one observation was that although really tasty, this combo was quite sweet and could use a bit more chocolate... round two, we sandwiched Hershey's chocolate bar between the cracker and marshmallow...a la traditional S'More...and Em's sugar coma ensued!

Our fourth and final combos for this experiment went in two directions...using a base of Girl Scout Trefoil Short Bread cookies (I had some squirreled away in the freezer), Emily used a Jumbo Marshmallow and utilizing the core extraction method, inserted some milk chocolate and squished away...she like this combo as it was less sweet than the peppermint patty...and the cookies were an unexpected crunchy bite.  Bill used the shortbread cookies, a regular toasted marshmallow and for his chocolate choice...his favorite...the Reese's Peanut Butter cups.  He liked this combo, but observed, anything tastes good with Reese's!

We tried one more variation of the S'more...sorta...this one is aimed at little ones who might not have the patience or skill set to eat molten sugar (remember Walter Matthau's forehead in Dennis the Menace), precariously squished between slick chocolate and crispy crackers.

Using a jumbo marshmallow, we inserted a pretzel rod into its center.  We melted some chocolate (I used Trader Joe's dark chocolate melting coins) in a microwave safe container.  Next, using a fork,  we drizzled the chocolate over the marshmallow "pop" and adorned it with rainbow sprinkles (chopped nuts, graham cracker crumbs, crushed Oreos, toffee bits...all fun toppers for this popper!): Small Fry S'More Pop!  Same great flavors but no chance of ouchies.

Obviously, there are a whole host of flavor combinations...most of all there is a ton of fun to be had!  I hope you are inspired by this experiment and have fun creating your own combos...let me know what creations you develop!

Have a happy and safe Fathers' Day everyone!

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Verrines: A Class, Glass Act

One of the nifty cultural cuisine habits I brought back from Paris is the verrine.  Literally meaning glass casing in French, a verrine is a small glass container, cocktail glass or tall sided bowl in which one serves a  delightful something, somewhere along the line in one's repast.  Usually, a verrine is served as a part of the "aperitf ", but I have served this tasty morsel between courses and as a part of a trio of desserts.  A verrine can be sweet or savory.  It is layered in a lovely little glass container (between 2 and 4 ounces) and is served cold or at room temperature.  I love to serve a sparkling wine with my verrines.

The first time I encountered a verrine was in Lyon, France, way back in 2001 during a truly gourmet seven course meal...little did I know that I was experiencing a a burgeoning culinary tradition.  My first verrine consisted of a bottom layer of fluffy pea mousse, then layered with creme fraiche and topped with an herbed tomato chutney.  I was skeptical at first, but the 2 ounce serving offered a lovely flavor profile and a tasty pause in the gastronomic feast...it is 10 years later and I still remember it!

Last year, while living in Paris, I learned more about verrines from local bloggers and a quirky TV show entitled Une Diner Presque Parfait. The idea for the show is that 5 strangers from the same city or town compete with one another to host the best dinner party.  Each night during the week, one of the contestants formulates a theme, menu and entertainment.  I learned a lot about French family traditions and more importantly about how "real" French people cook and entertain.  I noticed that most French enjoy serving their little concoctions in a small, clear serving vessel (verrine)...and it is more than a kitchy trend.  There is something friendly, yet elegant about eating a little something from a lovely glass and using a cute little spoon...fun and refined I guess you'd say.

When I hosted our first Parisian dinner party for our new friends, the Count and Countess ( for real!!!), I prepared a verrine for our aperitif.  It consisted of a warm compote of lightly spiced apples, layered with a whipped cream flavored with Blue d'Auvergne cheese and topped with chopped toasted hazelnuts.  Of course, we served a lovely Champagne (2009 Pommery Pop "Earth"...an organic champagne).

As I grew bolder during my market day adventures and oft inspired by my new favorite French TV show, I developed a number of verrine recipes for us to try and share with our new friends in Paris.  Many of these recipes were inspired by what was in season...some were variations on recipes from home...but all were served in little glass containers...perfect portion control...a nod to elegance and probably my favorite reason for serving verrines...it is the little speed bump in the menu.  It is something to whet the appetite, cleanse the palate, or just enough at the end of a meal to assuage a sweet tooth and some guilt.

I'd like to share a couple of my French recipes for verrines...savory and sweet!

Smoked Salmon with Herbed Cream and Chopped Egg

Layer 1:
Mince 6 ounces of your favorite type of raw, cured or smoked salmon and place in a mixing bowl.  To this add 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, 1 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice,  1 tsp grated lemon zest, 1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh parsley and four or five  grinds of cracked black pepper. Mix gently, but throughly.  Layer equal portions of the salmon mixture into 6 small, clear glasses (cordial glasses work well).

Layer 2:
In a chilled bowl, whip 3 ounces of heavy whipping cream until soft peaks form.  Carefully fold in 1/2 tsp each of minced fresh dill, parsley and thyme and a small pinch of salt to the whipped cream.   Layer equal portions  of the whipped cream over the salmon layer.

Layer 3:
Finely chop 3 hard cooked eggs.  Season lighly with salt and pepper.  Layer equal portions of the egg over the cream layer in the verrine.

Garnish with a sprig of fresh dill .

Serves 6

Recommended pairing:  a dry, oaky Champagne

Watermelon Gazpacho with Mint and Feta

Layer 1:  Cut into small cubes, 1 1/2 cups of seedless watermelon.  Set aside 1 cup of the cubes. In a blender or food processor, add 1/2 cup cubed watermelon,  one half of a seeded and minced jalapeno pepper, 6-8 large mint leaves, torn...puree until very smooth/liquidy.  Add puree and a pinch of salt to the remaining watermelon cubes.  Layer equal portions  of watermelon mixture into 6 cordial glasses.

Layer 2:
Peel and remove the seeds from a small cucumber (should be about 1 cup of cucumber)  Cut into small cubes (the same size as the watermelon). Season with a pinch of salt.  Layer equal portions of cucumber cubes over the watermelon mixture.

Layer 3:
In a food processor, add 1 tablespoon milk  and a pinch of freshly cracked  black pepper to 3 ounces of crumbled Feta cheese. Process until smooth.  Finely chop 1-2 tsp mint leaves and fold into the cheese mixture.  Spoon equal portions of cheese over the cucumber layer.  Garnish with crumbles of Feta cheese.

Serves 6

Recommended pairing:  2008 Sancerre La Moussiere ( Rose')

Spiced Apple with Blue Cheese and Toasted Hazelnuts

Layer 1:
Soak 1/4 cup raisins in 2 tbsp. warm brandy or Calvados.  Peel and cube 2 Granny Smith or other firm fleshed apples.  In a saute pan, melt 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter.  Heat until slightly browned.  Add the apples,  1/2 tsp brown sugar, 1/2 tsp cinnamon and a pinch of clove and a pinch of black pepper to browned butter. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully add the raisins and brandy... return to the burner and saute over medium-medium high heat for  three-five minutes until tender, but not mushy.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Layer equal portions of the apple mixture into 4 cocktail glasses.

Layer 2:
Whip 4 ounces heavy whipping cream to soft peaks.  Finely grate 2 ounces of blue cheese (freezing the cheese for 10 minutes prior makes grating easier).  Fold the cheese into the whipped cream. Layer equal amounts of cream over the apples.

Layer 3:
In a dry saute pan, heat 1/2 cup shelled and skinned hazelnuts over medium- medium high heat for about four minutes or until you can smell the toasted nut aroma.  Keep an eye on the nuts so they do not burn.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.  Once cooled, roughly chop the nuts and sprinkle evenly over the cheese layer.

Serves 4.


Recommended parings: Champagne, Port or Brandy