Verrines: A Class, Glass Act

One of the nifty cultural cuisine habits I brought back from Paris is the verrine.  Literally meaning glass casing in French, a verrine is a small glass container, cocktail glass or tall sided bowl in which one serves a  delightful something, somewhere along the line in one's repast.  Usually, a verrine is served as a part of the "aperitf ", but I have served this tasty morsel between courses and as a part of a trio of desserts.  A verrine can be sweet or savory.  It is layered in a lovely little glass container (between 2 and 4 ounces) and is served cold or at room temperature.  I love to serve a sparkling wine with my verrines.

The first time I encountered a verrine was in Lyon, France, way back in 2001 during a truly gourmet seven course meal...little did I know that I was experiencing a a burgeoning culinary tradition.  My first verrine consisted of a bottom layer of fluffy pea mousse, then layered with creme fraiche and topped with an herbed tomato chutney.  I was skeptical at first, but the 2 ounce serving offered a lovely flavor profile and a tasty pause in the gastronomic feast...it is 10 years later and I still remember it!

Last year, while living in Paris, I learned more about verrines from local bloggers and a quirky TV show entitled Une Diner Presque Parfait. The idea for the show is that 5 strangers from the same city or town compete with one another to host the best dinner party.  Each night during the week, one of the contestants formulates a theme, menu and entertainment.  I learned a lot about French family traditions and more importantly about how "real" French people cook and entertain.  I noticed that most French enjoy serving their little concoctions in a small, clear serving vessel (verrine)...and it is more than a kitchy trend.  There is something friendly, yet elegant about eating a little something from a lovely glass and using a cute little spoon...fun and refined I guess you'd say.

When I hosted our first Parisian dinner party for our new friends, the Count and Countess ( for real!!!), I prepared a verrine for our aperitif.  It consisted of a warm compote of lightly spiced apples, layered with a whipped cream flavored with Blue d'Auvergne cheese and topped with chopped toasted hazelnuts.  Of course, we served a lovely Champagne (2009 Pommery Pop "Earth"...an organic champagne).

As I grew bolder during my market day adventures and oft inspired by my new favorite French TV show, I developed a number of verrine recipes for us to try and share with our new friends in Paris.  Many of these recipes were inspired by what was in season...some were variations on recipes from home...but all were served in little glass containers...perfect portion control...a nod to elegance and probably my favorite reason for serving verrines...it is the little speed bump in the menu.  It is something to whet the appetite, cleanse the palate, or just enough at the end of a meal to assuage a sweet tooth and some guilt.

I'd like to share a couple of my French recipes for verrines...savory and sweet!

Smoked Salmon with Herbed Cream and Chopped Egg

Layer 1:
Mince 6 ounces of your favorite type of raw, cured or smoked salmon and place in a mixing bowl.  To this add 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, 1 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice,  1 tsp grated lemon zest, 1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh parsley and four or five  grinds of cracked black pepper. Mix gently, but throughly.  Layer equal portions of the salmon mixture into 6 small, clear glasses (cordial glasses work well).

Layer 2:
In a chilled bowl, whip 3 ounces of heavy whipping cream until soft peaks form.  Carefully fold in 1/2 tsp each of minced fresh dill, parsley and thyme and a small pinch of salt to the whipped cream.   Layer equal portions  of the whipped cream over the salmon layer.

Layer 3:
Finely chop 3 hard cooked eggs.  Season lighly with salt and pepper.  Layer equal portions of the egg over the cream layer in the verrine.

Garnish with a sprig of fresh dill .

Serves 6

Recommended pairing:  a dry, oaky Champagne

Watermelon Gazpacho with Mint and Feta

Layer 1:  Cut into small cubes, 1 1/2 cups of seedless watermelon.  Set aside 1 cup of the cubes. In a blender or food processor, add 1/2 cup cubed watermelon,  one half of a seeded and minced jalapeno pepper, 6-8 large mint leaves, torn...puree until very smooth/liquidy.  Add puree and a pinch of salt to the remaining watermelon cubes.  Layer equal portions  of watermelon mixture into 6 cordial glasses.

Layer 2:
Peel and remove the seeds from a small cucumber (should be about 1 cup of cucumber)  Cut into small cubes (the same size as the watermelon). Season with a pinch of salt.  Layer equal portions of cucumber cubes over the watermelon mixture.

Layer 3:
In a food processor, add 1 tablespoon milk  and a pinch of freshly cracked  black pepper to 3 ounces of crumbled Feta cheese. Process until smooth.  Finely chop 1-2 tsp mint leaves and fold into the cheese mixture.  Spoon equal portions of cheese over the cucumber layer.  Garnish with crumbles of Feta cheese.

Serves 6

Recommended pairing:  2008 Sancerre La Moussiere ( Rose')

Spiced Apple with Blue Cheese and Toasted Hazelnuts

Layer 1:
Soak 1/4 cup raisins in 2 tbsp. warm brandy or Calvados.  Peel and cube 2 Granny Smith or other firm fleshed apples.  In a saute pan, melt 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter.  Heat until slightly browned.  Add the apples,  1/2 tsp brown sugar, 1/2 tsp cinnamon and a pinch of clove and a pinch of black pepper to browned butter. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully add the raisins and brandy... return to the burner and saute over medium-medium high heat for  three-five minutes until tender, but not mushy.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Layer equal portions of the apple mixture into 4 cocktail glasses.

Layer 2:
Whip 4 ounces heavy whipping cream to soft peaks.  Finely grate 2 ounces of blue cheese (freezing the cheese for 10 minutes prior makes grating easier).  Fold the cheese into the whipped cream. Layer equal amounts of cream over the apples.

Layer 3:
In a dry saute pan, heat 1/2 cup shelled and skinned hazelnuts over medium- medium high heat for about four minutes or until you can smell the toasted nut aroma.  Keep an eye on the nuts so they do not burn.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.  Once cooled, roughly chop the nuts and sprinkle evenly over the cheese layer.

Serves 4.


Recommended parings: Champagne, Port or Brandy