Cook's Concern

In colonial times, the choicest piece of meat or a special taste from a prized recipe was often called the Cook's Concern. The Cook would enjoy this morsel and tweak the dish if so needed. I hope to share with you the choicest morsels in current culinary information. Enjoy!

Wednesday, November 11, 2015

Holiday Food and Beverage Pairings I: Champagne and Sparkling Wine

This post is coordinated with my Facebook page Champagne Thursday by Alice Anne Barbo...and as a supplement to my self published cookbook,  Champagne Thursday!www.facebook/mychampagnethursday/


I have been asked by many friends and family members to help them with food and beverage pairings, particular recommendations and even to develop signature cocktails for their holiday fetes and menus so over the next few weeks, I'll be posting some of my favorite ideas, recipes and beverages to serve as a guide for your holiday plans.

A couple of notes before talking about pairings...
1)  Drink what you like and like what you drink...Looong gone is the notion that you must drink red wine with meat and white wine with fish...experiment...or ask a knowledgeable person at a restaurant or liquor store about what they'd enjoy with this dish or that...or drop me a line...I have lots of ideas!

2)  There are two old adages that have served me well...everything in moderation...so drink responsibly and... never mix the grape and the grain...by this I mean...if you are going to drink wine, then stick with wine during the festivities...same holds true for beer, hard cider, or spirits...for some reason if you start the festivities with a cocktail and switch to wine and maybe finish off with a liqueur, you are almost always guaranteed a hangover...so moderately enjoy...stick to one type...certainly, you can progress through wines from white to red to sweet...if you do choose to have a mixed drink or a beer before wine, try drinking a large glass of very cold water in between...hydration helps.

3)  If you are entertaining on a budget, consider having a signature drink for your event/s.  I like to prepare a champagne cocktail to serve alongside the unadulterated version of wine.  From a classy Kir Royale which is sparkling wine with a splash of Chambord to something out of the ordinary, like my Sparkling Rose' Sangria Punch...having a go to cocktail saves money and affords less stress during the holidays! Adding some lovely garnishes like whole berries, pomegranate seeds or long peels of citrus zest, jazz up a glass of Prosecco or Cava.

4) Finally...hosts should never be so inebriated that they lack judgement because as we all know, friends don't let friends drive drunk...buzzed...tipsy...if they've had even one drink at your home, make sure they have something non-alcoholic, like very cold water, coffee, tea or juice... at least 30 minutes before departing your home.  Have the contact info of a cab company or UBER posted by their coats...it's your responsibility to see that your guests are safe.

Now that that's been said...over on Facebook I started with a little background on Champagne and Sparkling wines and how, if there were but one beverage to serve for all the upcoming occasions...you'd find success if it sparkles.

Beginning with a holiday breakfast or brunch, Champagne or sparkling wine cocktails bespeak of celebrations.  I find that a glass of oaky Champagne does wonders with anything cooked in butter.  I guess that is why I love having Champagne with a classic French omelet.  And if you care to add caviar to your morning eggs...then Champagne is the ONLY drink to enjoy.  Champagne along with other dry sparkling wines is very versatile.  The bubbles balance the unctuousness of fats and fried foods...it highlights foods that are smoky and grilled...it can handle spiciness or support sweetness in fruits and dessert.  So whether you are sharing charcuterie and cheese or chilling out over your favorite Chinese takeout...add some bubbles...they come ready for any party.

This year, we will be starting our Thanksgiving with a traditional southern style brunch:

Sausage gravy and biscuits
Asparagus wrapped in crispy prosciutto
Scrambled eggs (with caviar optional)
Monkey Bread
Grapefruit Brulee



My beverage selection will include a sparkling California Blanc de Noir, sparkling apple cider for those who prefer their boozy buzz to begin later in the day...strong coffee and plenty of sparkling water. This year, I will have a blood orange and pomegranate mixer available for a festive mimosa.

Serving appetizers?  Keep the bubbly flowing...Champagne and most other dry sparkling wines love cheese and crackers, creamy dips, pigs in a blanket and seafood...smoked salmon or trout, shrimp, scallops wrapped in bacon and of course...the sexiest of all, raw oysters...served with a classic mignonette sauce: 
In a small non-reactive bowl, combine 1/4 cup red wine or Champagne vinegar with 1 tablespoon finely minced shallots, 1/4 tsp. fresh, coarsely, ground black pepper...serve icy cold and drizzled over chilled oysters or clams on the half shell.  Makes enough for 1 dozen oysters.

If you feel the need to continue with sparkling wine throughout the festivities...I applaud your aplomb and recommend, especially with turkey, duck, or ham even a red meat like beef tenderloin a sparkling Rose'.  With just a hint of sweetness and lovely fruit forward notes, a sparkling rose' like Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rose' (about $25) or Cerdon du Bugey NV ($22) pairs beautifully with everything from cranberry sauce to cornbread stuffing!

When I serve something elegant like lobster (or lobster mac and cheese) I will serve the driest sparkler I can find...Tattinger Brut La Francaise ($50) or Champagne Billecarte-Salmon, Brut ($60)...with oaky, buttery,toasty and yeasty notes...come to mind.

And, if you like to serve mushrooms as a side or in a sauce...something magic happens when a sparkling wine appears!  For a more conservative budget, try an affordable American blanc de noirs like Gloria Ferrer (a personal fave at $25!) or Gruet ($17)...a slight sweetness from the red grape varietal, but it works with the "floor of the forest" terroir of mushrooms and red meats.

For dessert and or a cheese course, try a demi-sec (sweet) or doux (sweetest) champagne! Try Veuve Cliquot Demi-Sec Champagne ($55) with holiday pie, French style pastries like Macarons or with a fruit and cheese platter...focusing on dried fruits like apricots, figs and fresh fruit like pears and apples...the cheese, a triple cream, like Brillat Savarin or a very creamy goat cheese drizzled with honey and chopped pistachios.


Dried Apricots with Goat Cheese and Sweet & Spicy Pecans



Here's to your holidays..
"For each new morning with its light,
For rest and shelter of the night,
For health and food,
For love and friends,
For everything Thy goodness sends."  Ralph Waldo Emerson

Next post:  Which white wines to serve for your finest holiday occasions.

Bon appetit!













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